As I scraped the autumn's first frost from my windshield this morning, I quietly mourned the end of chowder season here in Southern Illinois (say it with me: "NOT Chicago!"). Why a warm bowl of chowder is relegated to the months *before* the onset of cold weather is anyone's guess, yet here we are.
"But what kind of chowder?!?," you may be asking. Corn chowder? Clam chowder?
No, Southern Illinois ("NOT Chicago!") chowder has no corn, no clams. And no thickening agents, either. It's just stew. Stew made in BIG batches. A coworker of mine spent several days of vacation time to return to his hometown and make *800 GALLONS* of chowder. As is custom, those 800 gallons were divvied up into 30ish-gallon batches (a far more reasonable number, to be certain), cooked over an open flame, and stirred continuously with "The Paddle" for fear of charring.
![]() |
| Behold The Paddle. Credit: Herb Meeker |
Those looking to partake are to arrive with a container in hand, be it a Mason jar, a Tupperware, or a five-gallon bucket. That my coworker sold out within a few hours is testament to chowder's stranglehold on the region. That's 160 five-gallon buckets of stew sold within hours!!!
I want to turn now to two chowder-adjacent "sister" stews, namely the Kentuckian burgoo and the Minnesotan booyah. Like chowder, they are amalgamations of mystery meats and vegetable medleys, their original recipes dumbed down by rising health standards; what were once the fruits of hunting and gardening are now bought in bulk at Walmart. Both burgoo and booyah are rumored to possess actual heritage—the former (purportedly) hailing from Scottish sailors and the latter (purportedly) a mispronunciation of the French "bouillon"—but their respective family trees may as well be drawn with crayon.
In mild contrast, the origins of chowder are murky. Most Southern Illinoisans ("NOT from Chicago!") just shrug when probed about chowder's origins, indifferent to the 'how' and 'why.' And that's because chowder as a dish is widely uncelebrated. I asked dozens of locals for their opinions on chowder, and very few were enthusiastic defenders. After all, it's nigh-impossible to effectively season a 30ish-gallon batch of anything. Instead, it's chowder as an event that riles up regional fervor. Chowders are held in municipalities of all sizes, often with the goal of reinvesting in the local community; the proceeds from my coworker's chowder sabbatical, for example, went to maintaining his hometown's cemetery.
BROADLY* speaking, the Midwest is ethnically ambiguous. Sure, there are more individuals with Polish ancestry in Illinois ("Chicago!"), German ancestry in Kentucky, and Scandinavian ancestry in Minnesota, but for many** of them that heritage is insignificant, a factoid from a 23andMe fling and nothing more. And in that spirit, Southern Illinois ("NOT Chicago!") chowder isn't about connecting with your roots, but about planting new ones. It's about sacrificing PTO to fundraise for your community. It's about sitting in a lawn chair for ten hours, your butt numb, tending to the chowder all the while. It's about filling your five-gallon bucket with mediocre, underseasoned stew because that's the neighborly thing to do.
That chowders continue to be held each year, in spite of an obscure heritage and a general disinterest in the dish itself, cements the tradition as something ethnically ambiguous and community-forward—as something quintessentially Midwestern. Now if only the weather would warm up again...
*I'm painting with a broad, broad brush.
**Look! It's that behemoth of a brush again!





